Rain gardens are areas of the landscape designed to catch rainwater long enough to allow it to percolate slowly back into the groundwater rather than run off the soil. Rain gardens help recharge groundwater, improve the water quality of streams and rivers, reduce flooding, and provide cover for wildlife and butterflies.
Rain gardens can be just shallow depressions of a few inches or elaborately constructed sites, depending on available space and needs of the site. The garden's topography should be designed to encourage water flow into the garden. The site must drain well enough to allow slow and steady percolation into the groundwater. Soil drainage can be greatly enhanced by additions of finished compost in preparing the area. <Read More>
Monday, November 21, 2011
Hogs: 2012 The Best Year in High-Priced Feed Era
The pork industry is expected to have a profitable year in 2012! In fact, the level of profitability could be the most favorable during the high priced feed era. Profits in 2012 are currently forecast to be near $17 per head, which would be the highest since 2006. That was the last year of the low feed price era when corn prices received by farmers averaged about $2.30 per bushel for the calendar year and estimated hog profits were $27 per head.
While a return to profitability is welcome news, there are deeper and more important implications. The first is that the pork industry, like most other animal industries, has made the adjustments necessary to live in a world of high priced feed. The second is that the pork industry probably has “turned the corner” on high feed prices as one looks to 2012 with abundant and cheap feed wheat, prospects for moderation in the rate of growth in corn use for ethanol, the potential for a larger South American soybean crop, and hope for a return to higher U.S. corn and soybean yields. <Read More>
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Post-harvest, Farmers Have Lots of Work Ahead
As farmers wrap up harvesting corn and soybeans across the Eastern Corn Belt, the work is just getting started on many farms, with fertilizer, herbicide and tillage applications planned in the waning weeks of productivity for 2011.
"As we finish harvesting soybeans, farmers have started putting on phosphorus and potassium, mostly during the past two weeks," said Harold Watters, an Ohio State University Extension educator with Extension's Agronomic Crops Team. "Custom applicators were ready to go into the field for a long time, and we are glad to finally see them moving." <Read More>
"As we finish harvesting soybeans, farmers have started putting on phosphorus and potassium, mostly during the past two weeks," said Harold Watters, an Ohio State University Extension educator with Extension's Agronomic Crops Team. "Custom applicators were ready to go into the field for a long time, and we are glad to finally see them moving." <Read More>
Cut Back Perennials Now or Later
Rosie Lerner, Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist
Gardeners often ask, "When is the best time to cut back the dead tops of herbaceous perennials (stems die back to the ground each year)?" "Should we cut them in fall as the tops fade?" "Or wait until spring just before new growth begins?" The answers depend, in part, on the specific plant and whether disease or insect pests are a factor.
For most healthy plants, leaving plant tops over winter is fine and, in many respects, preferable. Many species retain dried seed heads and foliage that may have aesthetic value. Ornamental grasses are at their best in fall and winter.
And, if you don't cut back the tops, your native wildlife will thank you! Seed heads, fruits, stems and foliage provide food and shelter. Although late-season bloomers, such as brown-eyed Susans and coneflowers, may have turned brown, birds still feed on the seed. Many butterflies overwinter on plant debris.
Allowing plant tops to remain over winter can also help collect leaves and snow for insulation and moisture. For some marginally hardy perennials, like garden mums, waiting until early spring to cut back the dead tops can actually improve a plant's chances of survival.
And, of course, leaving the tops in place will remind you where the plants are, in case you're thinking of adding more plants or rearranging the elements of the garden before spring growth begins.
On the other hand, plants with disease or insect pest troubles should be pruned back in fall to reduce the chances of carryover to the following season. Sanitation is one of the best investments gardeners can make in reducing problems for next season. Peonies and Rudbeckia with blackened foliage should definitely be cut back in fall. The same is true for bee balm and phlox, which are routinely plagued by powdery mildew. Removing iris and asparagus foliage in the fall reduces overwintering sites for the iris borer and asparagus beetles, respectively.
Badly damaged or infested foliage can and should be removed as soon as possible. Otherwise, wait until after several hard frosts have killed back the tops. Cut back the tops to about two inches above the soil. Hand pruners and hedge clippers work fine, if you have just a few plants to cut back. But for larger plantings and large clumps of ornamental grasses, a power hedge trimmer works well.
Gardeners often ask, "When is the best time to cut back the dead tops of herbaceous perennials (stems die back to the ground each year)?" "Should we cut them in fall as the tops fade?" "Or wait until spring just before new growth begins?" The answers depend, in part, on the specific plant and whether disease or insect pests are a factor.
For most healthy plants, leaving plant tops over winter is fine and, in many respects, preferable. Many species retain dried seed heads and foliage that may have aesthetic value. Ornamental grasses are at their best in fall and winter.
And, if you don't cut back the tops, your native wildlife will thank you! Seed heads, fruits, stems and foliage provide food and shelter. Although late-season bloomers, such as brown-eyed Susans and coneflowers, may have turned brown, birds still feed on the seed. Many butterflies overwinter on plant debris.
Allowing plant tops to remain over winter can also help collect leaves and snow for insulation and moisture. For some marginally hardy perennials, like garden mums, waiting until early spring to cut back the dead tops can actually improve a plant's chances of survival.
And, of course, leaving the tops in place will remind you where the plants are, in case you're thinking of adding more plants or rearranging the elements of the garden before spring growth begins.
On the other hand, plants with disease or insect pest troubles should be pruned back in fall to reduce the chances of carryover to the following season. Sanitation is one of the best investments gardeners can make in reducing problems for next season. Peonies and Rudbeckia with blackened foliage should definitely be cut back in fall. The same is true for bee balm and phlox, which are routinely plagued by powdery mildew. Removing iris and asparagus foliage in the fall reduces overwintering sites for the iris borer and asparagus beetles, respectively.
Badly damaged or infested foliage can and should be removed as soon as possible. Otherwise, wait until after several hard frosts have killed back the tops. Cut back the tops to about two inches above the soil. Hand pruners and hedge clippers work fine, if you have just a few plants to cut back. But for larger plantings and large clumps of ornamental grasses, a power hedge trimmer works well.
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