HOME (Indoor plants and activities)
Prepare storage areas for overwintering tender flower bulbs and garden
produce.
Thanksgiving (or Christmas) cactus can be forced into bloom for the
Thanksgiving holidays. Provide 15 hours of complete darkness each day, for
instance, from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m., for approximately eight weeks. Keep temperature
at about 60 to 65F. Temperatures of 55F will cause flower buds to set without
dark treatment.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Fall is usually a good time to plant many container-grown or
balled-and-burlapped nursery stock, but if your area is still suffering from
drought, it might be best to wait for better conditions. You do not want new
plantings to go into winter in drought condition.
If you do have sufficient rainfall or ability to irrigate new plantings,
prepare a hole wider than the plant’s rootball, plant at the same depth it grew
in the nursery, and water thoroughly. Mulching will help protect against large
fluctuations in soil temperature and moisture. Be sure to stake or guy-wire tall
plants during their first season to protect them from strong winds.
GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)
Dig up onions and garlic after tops fall over naturally and necks begin to
dry.
Plant radishes, green onion sets, lettuce and spinach for fall harvest.
Thin out fall crops such as lettuce and carrots that were planted
earlier. <Read More>
Showing posts with label perennials. Show all posts
Showing posts with label perennials. Show all posts
Wednesday, August 22, 2012
Stressed Plants May Look Like Early Fall
Early fall color and/or defoliation is common when plants are under stress and this season has been quite challenging for many trees, both old and young. The intense heat made it difficult for plants to keep up with water and cooling requirements, even in areas where moisture was adequate. Combine extreme heat with drought, and it is a wonder any plants survive. <Read More>
Monday, August 6, 2012
Upcoming Events - Purdue Master Gardener Course to be Offered this Fall
If you enjoy gardening and enjoy “Helping Others Grow”, make plans to take part in this fall’s Purdue Master Gardener Course in Spencer County. The Purdue Master Gardener Program is a volunteer training program which offers an extensive course in horticulture in exchange for a donation of volunteer hours to help teach others what you have learned.
The course will be held on twelve consecutive Monday evenings from 6:00-9:00 PM, beginning September 10, at the Spencer County Youth and Community Center in Chrisney, IN.
Participants will be exposed to a wide range of subjects including soil and plant science, diagnosis of plant problems, pesticide safety, composting, and culture of vegetable, flower, landscape, and fruit plants.
A $125 per person supply fee will be charged to cover such items as reference materials, mailings, name badges, and refreshments. Couples or two family members who wish to take the course together and share reference materials can register for $200 per couple. Registration deadline is August 31.
If you'd like an application to join our new team of volunteers or have questions about the program, please contact Nicholas Held at the Spencer County-Purdue Extension Office at (812) 649-6022 or nheld@purdue.edu. Applications are also available online.
Friday, July 27, 2012
August Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar
HOME (Indoor plants and activities)
Take cuttings from plants such as impatiens, coleus, geraniums and wax begonias to overwinter indoors. Root the cuttings in media such as moist vermiculite, perlite, peat moss or potting soil, rather than water.
Order spring-flowering bulbs for fall planting.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Newly established plants are particularly vulnerable to extreme heat and drought. If possible, apply 1 to 1.5 inches of water every 7 to 10 days as a gentle, thorough soaking.
Even well-established trees, shrubs and perennials will suffer from extreme heat coupled with drought. Symptoms may include wilting, leaf scorch, branch dieback, blossom drop, early "fall" color and leaf drop, and in some cases, plant death of specimens that were already ailing.
GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)
Temperatures above 90 F often leads to poor fruit set in most vegetable crops; upper 90s will stop fruit set in nearly all crops. Fruits that were already set may show uneven ripening, blossom-end rot, skin cracking, sunburn where foliage cover is poor, poor ear fill in corn and bitter flavor in cucumbers and other vegetables.
Keep the garden well watered during dry weather and free of weeds, insects and disease. Early morning is the best time to water, but areas under watering restrictions may need to adjust accordingly. While normally we discourage overhead sprinkling due to its inefficiency and potential for promoting plant disease, it can be very effective at decreasing temperature in the plant tissue. <Read More>
Take cuttings from plants such as impatiens, coleus, geraniums and wax begonias to overwinter indoors. Root the cuttings in media such as moist vermiculite, perlite, peat moss or potting soil, rather than water.
Order spring-flowering bulbs for fall planting.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Newly established plants are particularly vulnerable to extreme heat and drought. If possible, apply 1 to 1.5 inches of water every 7 to 10 days as a gentle, thorough soaking.
Even well-established trees, shrubs and perennials will suffer from extreme heat coupled with drought. Symptoms may include wilting, leaf scorch, branch dieback, blossom drop, early "fall" color and leaf drop, and in some cases, plant death of specimens that were already ailing.
GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)
Temperatures above 90 F often leads to poor fruit set in most vegetable crops; upper 90s will stop fruit set in nearly all crops. Fruits that were already set may show uneven ripening, blossom-end rot, skin cracking, sunburn where foliage cover is poor, poor ear fill in corn and bitter flavor in cucumbers and other vegetables.
Keep the garden well watered during dry weather and free of weeds, insects and disease. Early morning is the best time to water, but areas under watering restrictions may need to adjust accordingly. While normally we discourage overhead sprinkling due to its inefficiency and potential for promoting plant disease, it can be very effective at decreasing temperature in the plant tissue. <Read More>
Thursday, May 24, 2012
June Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar
HOME (Indoor plants and activities)
Indoor plants will require more frequent watering and fertilization as they increase their summer growth.
Houseplants can be moved outdoors to a shady location, but pay close attention to their watering needs.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Prune spring-flowering shrubs after blooms fade.
Apply fungicide to prevent and control black spot on roses.
GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)
Discontinue harvest of asparagus and rhubarb around mid-June to allow foliage to develop and store food reserves for next year’s harvest. Fertilize and water when dry to promote healthy growth.
Mulch to control weeds and conserve soil moisture after soil has warmed. Many materials such as straw, chopped corncobs, bark chips, shredded paper and grass clippings can be used. <Read More>
Indoor plants will require more frequent watering and fertilization as they increase their summer growth.
Houseplants can be moved outdoors to a shady location, but pay close attention to their watering needs.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Prune spring-flowering shrubs after blooms fade.
Apply fungicide to prevent and control black spot on roses.
GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)
Discontinue harvest of asparagus and rhubarb around mid-June to allow foliage to develop and store food reserves for next year’s harvest. Fertilize and water when dry to promote healthy growth.
Mulch to control weeds and conserve soil moisture after soil has warmed. Many materials such as straw, chopped corncobs, bark chips, shredded paper and grass clippings can be used. <Read More>
Thursday, March 15, 2012
April Yard and Garden Calendar
HOME (Indoor plants and activities)
Start seeds of warm-season plants, including tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, marigolds, zinnias and petunias, indoors for transplanting later to the garden.
Harden off transplants started earlier in spring before planting outdoors - gradually expose the young plants to outdoor conditions of wind, brighter sunlight and lower moisture.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Plant a tree in celebration of National Arbor Day, April 27. Bare-root stock should be planted before new top growth begins. Balled- and-burlapped and containerized stock can still be planted later in spring.
Fertilize woody plants before new growth begins. Two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet should be sufficient.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Plant seeds of cool-season crops directly in the garden, as soon as soil dries enough to be worked. When squeezed, soil should crumble instead of forming a ball. Cool-season crops that can be direct-seeded include peas, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips and Swiss chard.
Plant transplants of cool-season crops, such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi and onions. <Read More>
Start seeds of warm-season plants, including tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, marigolds, zinnias and petunias, indoors for transplanting later to the garden.
Harden off transplants started earlier in spring before planting outdoors - gradually expose the young plants to outdoor conditions of wind, brighter sunlight and lower moisture.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Plant a tree in celebration of National Arbor Day, April 27. Bare-root stock should be planted before new top growth begins. Balled- and-burlapped and containerized stock can still be planted later in spring.
Fertilize woody plants before new growth begins. Two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet should be sufficient.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Plant seeds of cool-season crops directly in the garden, as soon as soil dries enough to be worked. When squeezed, soil should crumble instead of forming a ball. Cool-season crops that can be direct-seeded include peas, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips and Swiss chard.
Plant transplants of cool-season crops, such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi and onions. <Read More>
Thursday, February 23, 2012
March Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar
Rosie Lerner, Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist
HOME (Indoor plants and activities)
Begin fertilizing houseplants as new growth appears. Keep spent leaves and flowers removed to improve appearance and encourage more blooms.
Start garden seeds indoors for transplanting outdoors later in spring.
Check stored bulbs and produce for decay; discard damaged items.
Prune, repot and clean houseplants as needed.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Prune trees and shrubs, except those that bloom early in spring, while plants are still dormant.
Plant new trees and shrubs as soon as soil dries enough to be worked. Plant bare-root plants before they leaf out.
Fertilize woody plants before new growth begins, but after soil temperatures have reached 40 F - it might be several weeks early this year, given the mild winter.
Remove winter coverings from roses as soon as new growth begins. Prune and fertilize as needed.
Apply superior oil spray to control scale insects and mites when tips of leaves start to protrude from buds.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Plant cool-season vegetables and flowers as soon as the ground has dried enough to work. Do NOT work the soil while it is wet; wait until it crumbles in your hand. If the soil forms a solid ball when squeezed, it's still too wet.
Gradually harden off transplants by setting them outdoors during the daytime for about a week before planting.
Follow last fall's soil test recommendations for fertilizer and pH adjustment. It's not too late to test soil if you missed last year.
Start seeds of warm-season vegetables and flowers indoors; in northern and central Indiana, wait until the end of March or early April. Transplant to the garden after danger of frost is past.
Watch for blooms of early spring bulbs, such as daffodils, squill, crocus, dwarf iris and snowdrops.
Remove old asparagus and rhubarb tops, and sidedress the plants with nitrogen or manure. Plant or transplant asparagus, rhubarb and small fruit plants.
Remove winter mulch from strawberry beds as soon as new growth begins, but keep the mulch nearby to protect against frost and freezes.
Remove weak, diseased or damaged canes from raspberry plants before new growth begins. Remove old fruiting canes if not removed last year, and shorten remaining canes if necessary.
Prune grapevines.
HOME (Indoor plants and activities)
Begin fertilizing houseplants as new growth appears. Keep spent leaves and flowers removed to improve appearance and encourage more blooms.
Start garden seeds indoors for transplanting outdoors later in spring.
Check stored bulbs and produce for decay; discard damaged items.
Prune, repot and clean houseplants as needed.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Prune trees and shrubs, except those that bloom early in spring, while plants are still dormant.
Plant new trees and shrubs as soon as soil dries enough to be worked. Plant bare-root plants before they leaf out.
Fertilize woody plants before new growth begins, but after soil temperatures have reached 40 F - it might be several weeks early this year, given the mild winter.
Remove winter coverings from roses as soon as new growth begins. Prune and fertilize as needed.
Apply superior oil spray to control scale insects and mites when tips of leaves start to protrude from buds.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Plant cool-season vegetables and flowers as soon as the ground has dried enough to work. Do NOT work the soil while it is wet; wait until it crumbles in your hand. If the soil forms a solid ball when squeezed, it's still too wet.
Gradually harden off transplants by setting them outdoors during the daytime for about a week before planting.
Follow last fall's soil test recommendations for fertilizer and pH adjustment. It's not too late to test soil if you missed last year.
Start seeds of warm-season vegetables and flowers indoors; in northern and central Indiana, wait until the end of March or early April. Transplant to the garden after danger of frost is past.
Watch for blooms of early spring bulbs, such as daffodils, squill, crocus, dwarf iris and snowdrops.
Remove old asparagus and rhubarb tops, and sidedress the plants with nitrogen or manure. Plant or transplant asparagus, rhubarb and small fruit plants.
Remove winter mulch from strawberry beds as soon as new growth begins, but keep the mulch nearby to protect against frost and freezes.
Remove weak, diseased or damaged canes from raspberry plants before new growth begins. Remove old fruiting canes if not removed last year, and shorten remaining canes if necessary.
Prune grapevines.
Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Winter Warm Spell Confuses Landscape and Garden Plants
Larry Caplan, Vanderburgh County Extension Horticulture Educator
I knew this warm spell of the past week was going to be a problem. Sometimes, I hate to be right.
Temperatures in the 50s and 60s have caused a lot of bulbs, perennials, and flowering plants to begin to emerge from the soil and bud out. In my garden, I’ve got crocus and daffodil in bloom. The buds on my lilacs are swelling; I’ve had reports of bud swell on peaches and other fruit trees, especially closer to the Ohio River.
According to the Weather Channel website (http://www.weather.com/weather/ ), our overnight temperatures will be dropping below freezing this week. According to the 10 day forecast for Evansville, we can expect overnight temperatures in the 20s starting Wednesday night, and continuing through Sunday night. The most recent prediction on this site is for a low of 20 degrees on Friday night.
Temperatures this low are going to cause damage to any exposed leaves and blooms. Expect to see daffodil foliage killed back to the ground, along with any other perennial plants that started to sprout. Fortunately, the soil is pretty warm, so the bulbs and perennials themselves shouldn’t be killed: they will sprout back out again, and may even bloom this spring.
Shrubs like azalea, lilac, and shadblow are in a very sensitive stage of development, as are crabapples, peaches, and ornamental cherries. As long as the buds haven’t opened, or at least, not show more than a little bit of a green tip, I expect that freeze damage to the blooms will be minor. If peaches, which are probably the most sensitive of our fruit crops, are still in the swollen bud stage, then a temperature of 18 degrees will only kill about 10% of the blooms…hardly noticeable. But if the peach flowers are showing any pink, then the same 18 degree low will wipe out 90% of the blooms.
Strawberries may be badly hurt. It never really got cold this winter, so the plants never really got into full dormancy. Check your garden: if you see any new green leaves, or (worse yet) any blooms, then a drop in temperature below 28 degrees is going to devastate them. If you still have your straw, plan on covering the plants deeply late afternoon, before the temperature drops. Remove the straw in the morning, after the temperature gets above freezing. Looking at the forecast, we’ll be doing this all week.
I’ve seen roses actually leafing out already. Roses produce their flower buds on new growth, so if some of the new shoots get frozen, the plant will simply sprout some more shoots and go on to bloom later in the season. However, a drop to 20 degrees, as predicted, could do more than blast some leaves and shoots: large portions of the plant could be killed back. It is most important to protect the graft union (a swollen section on the lower trunk, where your pretty rose branches, the scion, are grafted onto a root stock). If the graft union is damaged, then the plant will sprout from the roots, giving you a poor quality “wild rose”, which will look nothing like the plant you bought. Mound the base of the plant with wood chips, shredded leaves, or straw to a depth of 18 - 24 inches.
I don’t think you’ll need to cover your shrubs with sheets, but if you do, be sure to use a cloth sheet, and not a plastic tarp. Heat leaches right through the plastic, and any foliage touching it will be frosted. Don’t lay the sheet over your daffodils – you’ll wind up breaking the stems off. The sheets will only protect your plants down to a temperature of 25 to 26 degrees; much below that, and you may still get injury. If the sheet hangs all the way down to the warm ground, you may be able to withstand a colder overnight temperature as all the warm air is kept around the plant.
BTW: Please DO NOT refer to the cold snap this week as a “late frost.” Our average last frost of the year is the first or second week of April for the southwestern corner of Indiana. It’s SUPPOSED to be this cold!
Good luck!
I knew this warm spell of the past week was going to be a problem. Sometimes, I hate to be right.
Temperatures in the 50s and 60s have caused a lot of bulbs, perennials, and flowering plants to begin to emerge from the soil and bud out. In my garden, I’ve got crocus and daffodil in bloom. The buds on my lilacs are swelling; I’ve had reports of bud swell on peaches and other fruit trees, especially closer to the Ohio River.
According to the Weather Channel website (http://www.weather.com/weather/ ), our overnight temperatures will be dropping below freezing this week. According to the 10 day forecast for Evansville, we can expect overnight temperatures in the 20s starting Wednesday night, and continuing through Sunday night. The most recent prediction on this site is for a low of 20 degrees on Friday night.
Temperatures this low are going to cause damage to any exposed leaves and blooms. Expect to see daffodil foliage killed back to the ground, along with any other perennial plants that started to sprout. Fortunately, the soil is pretty warm, so the bulbs and perennials themselves shouldn’t be killed: they will sprout back out again, and may even bloom this spring.
Shrubs like azalea, lilac, and shadblow are in a very sensitive stage of development, as are crabapples, peaches, and ornamental cherries. As long as the buds haven’t opened, or at least, not show more than a little bit of a green tip, I expect that freeze damage to the blooms will be minor. If peaches, which are probably the most sensitive of our fruit crops, are still in the swollen bud stage, then a temperature of 18 degrees will only kill about 10% of the blooms…hardly noticeable. But if the peach flowers are showing any pink, then the same 18 degree low will wipe out 90% of the blooms.
Strawberries may be badly hurt. It never really got cold this winter, so the plants never really got into full dormancy. Check your garden: if you see any new green leaves, or (worse yet) any blooms, then a drop in temperature below 28 degrees is going to devastate them. If you still have your straw, plan on covering the plants deeply late afternoon, before the temperature drops. Remove the straw in the morning, after the temperature gets above freezing. Looking at the forecast, we’ll be doing this all week.
I’ve seen roses actually leafing out already. Roses produce their flower buds on new growth, so if some of the new shoots get frozen, the plant will simply sprout some more shoots and go on to bloom later in the season. However, a drop to 20 degrees, as predicted, could do more than blast some leaves and shoots: large portions of the plant could be killed back. It is most important to protect the graft union (a swollen section on the lower trunk, where your pretty rose branches, the scion, are grafted onto a root stock). If the graft union is damaged, then the plant will sprout from the roots, giving you a poor quality “wild rose”, which will look nothing like the plant you bought. Mound the base of the plant with wood chips, shredded leaves, or straw to a depth of 18 - 24 inches.
I don’t think you’ll need to cover your shrubs with sheets, but if you do, be sure to use a cloth sheet, and not a plastic tarp. Heat leaches right through the plastic, and any foliage touching it will be frosted. Don’t lay the sheet over your daffodils – you’ll wind up breaking the stems off. The sheets will only protect your plants down to a temperature of 25 to 26 degrees; much below that, and you may still get injury. If the sheet hangs all the way down to the warm ground, you may be able to withstand a colder overnight temperature as all the warm air is kept around the plant.
BTW: Please DO NOT refer to the cold snap this week as a “late frost.” Our average last frost of the year is the first or second week of April for the southwestern corner of Indiana. It’s SUPPOSED to be this cold!
Good luck!
Monday, January 23, 2012
In The Grow - Q & A
Rosie Lerner, Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist
Q. I have a cat that has been digging up the soil in my houseplants. I read in a magazine that mothballs can be used to keep rabbits out of the garden, so I'm wondering if I can use them on the top of the soil to discourage the cat.
A. In a nutshell, don't do it! While it is not uncommon to see mothballs recommended for repelling rodents and other animal pests, it is a dangerous and illegal practice. Mothballs, flakes and crystals are Environmental Protection Agency-registered insecticides, and they are not intended for use in the manner you suggest, in either the indoor or outdoor garden. In fact, they pose serious health risks to cats, dogs, and humans, and perhaps even to the plant you want to protect. In addition to the risk of ingestion, exposure to eyes and skin, and inhalation of the fumes can all lead to serious illness or injury. Further, it is illegal to recommend use of these products in a manner that is inconsistent with the pesticide label.
Mothballs have a high percentage of active ingredient, either naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene. These chemicals vaporize at fairly low temperatures, so they are particularly dangerous indoors at room temperature. Naphthalene is the more toxic of the two, but both have great potential to cause harm. These products should only be used according to label directions. Like all other pesticides, keep them out of reach of children and pets.
For more information on common misuse of moth-repellent products, see
http://www.ag.purdue.edu/entm/wildlifehotline/Pages/pesticides.aspx and http://npic.orst.edu/ingred/ptype/mothball/index.html.
Q. Some of the spring flowering bulbs that I planted this fall are sprouting and showing some foliage above the ground in early January. Is there anything I should do to protect them through the rest of winter?
A. Lots of gardeners are noticing their bulbs coming up, since the weather has been so mild, and there has not been much, if any, snow cover in many areas of the state. The most dramatic response is with early flowering bulbs, such as snowdrops, early tulips, daffodils and crocus. These plants may be showing a bit of their foliage above ground now, especially those that were planted near buildings or other warm, protected locations.
These leaves will likely be nipped back once the temperatures drop back down below freezing again. In most cases, flower buds will remain protected inside the bulb below ground. If the warm temperatures continue for an extended period, the flower buds also may break out; some of the really early spring bulbs, such as snowdrops, may already have done so. Those blossoms that do show their heads will be nipped by a hard freeze once more normal temperatures prevail. However, the bulbs themselves will survive and come back next year, even if the flowers don't make it to spring this year.
There's not much a gardener can do to prevent nature from taking its course. Mulching over the plants now might smother them and would actually encourage growth by warming the soil further. And we have a lot more winter to get through before we know how the plants will fare.
Q. I have a cat that has been digging up the soil in my houseplants. I read in a magazine that mothballs can be used to keep rabbits out of the garden, so I'm wondering if I can use them on the top of the soil to discourage the cat.
A. In a nutshell, don't do it! While it is not uncommon to see mothballs recommended for repelling rodents and other animal pests, it is a dangerous and illegal practice. Mothballs, flakes and crystals are Environmental Protection Agency-registered insecticides, and they are not intended for use in the manner you suggest, in either the indoor or outdoor garden. In fact, they pose serious health risks to cats, dogs, and humans, and perhaps even to the plant you want to protect. In addition to the risk of ingestion, exposure to eyes and skin, and inhalation of the fumes can all lead to serious illness or injury. Further, it is illegal to recommend use of these products in a manner that is inconsistent with the pesticide label.
Mothballs have a high percentage of active ingredient, either naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene. These chemicals vaporize at fairly low temperatures, so they are particularly dangerous indoors at room temperature. Naphthalene is the more toxic of the two, but both have great potential to cause harm. These products should only be used according to label directions. Like all other pesticides, keep them out of reach of children and pets.
For more information on common misuse of moth-repellent products, see
http://www.ag.purdue.edu/entm/wildlifehotline/Pages/pesticides.aspx and http://npic.orst.edu/ingred/ptype/mothball/index.html.
Q. Some of the spring flowering bulbs that I planted this fall are sprouting and showing some foliage above the ground in early January. Is there anything I should do to protect them through the rest of winter?
A. Lots of gardeners are noticing their bulbs coming up, since the weather has been so mild, and there has not been much, if any, snow cover in many areas of the state. The most dramatic response is with early flowering bulbs, such as snowdrops, early tulips, daffodils and crocus. These plants may be showing a bit of their foliage above ground now, especially those that were planted near buildings or other warm, protected locations.
|
There's not much a gardener can do to prevent nature from taking its course. Mulching over the plants now might smother them and would actually encourage growth by warming the soil further. And we have a lot more winter to get through before we know how the plants will fare.
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Cut Back Perennials Now or Later
Rosie Lerner, Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist
Gardeners often ask, "When is the best time to cut back the dead tops of herbaceous perennials (stems die back to the ground each year)?" "Should we cut them in fall as the tops fade?" "Or wait until spring just before new growth begins?" The answers depend, in part, on the specific plant and whether disease or insect pests are a factor.
For most healthy plants, leaving plant tops over winter is fine and, in many respects, preferable. Many species retain dried seed heads and foliage that may have aesthetic value. Ornamental grasses are at their best in fall and winter.
And, if you don't cut back the tops, your native wildlife will thank you! Seed heads, fruits, stems and foliage provide food and shelter. Although late-season bloomers, such as brown-eyed Susans and coneflowers, may have turned brown, birds still feed on the seed. Many butterflies overwinter on plant debris.
Allowing plant tops to remain over winter can also help collect leaves and snow for insulation and moisture. For some marginally hardy perennials, like garden mums, waiting until early spring to cut back the dead tops can actually improve a plant's chances of survival.
And, of course, leaving the tops in place will remind you where the plants are, in case you're thinking of adding more plants or rearranging the elements of the garden before spring growth begins.
On the other hand, plants with disease or insect pest troubles should be pruned back in fall to reduce the chances of carryover to the following season. Sanitation is one of the best investments gardeners can make in reducing problems for next season. Peonies and Rudbeckia with blackened foliage should definitely be cut back in fall. The same is true for bee balm and phlox, which are routinely plagued by powdery mildew. Removing iris and asparagus foliage in the fall reduces overwintering sites for the iris borer and asparagus beetles, respectively.
Badly damaged or infested foliage can and should be removed as soon as possible. Otherwise, wait until after several hard frosts have killed back the tops. Cut back the tops to about two inches above the soil. Hand pruners and hedge clippers work fine, if you have just a few plants to cut back. But for larger plantings and large clumps of ornamental grasses, a power hedge trimmer works well.
Gardeners often ask, "When is the best time to cut back the dead tops of herbaceous perennials (stems die back to the ground each year)?" "Should we cut them in fall as the tops fade?" "Or wait until spring just before new growth begins?" The answers depend, in part, on the specific plant and whether disease or insect pests are a factor.
For most healthy plants, leaving plant tops over winter is fine and, in many respects, preferable. Many species retain dried seed heads and foliage that may have aesthetic value. Ornamental grasses are at their best in fall and winter.
And, if you don't cut back the tops, your native wildlife will thank you! Seed heads, fruits, stems and foliage provide food and shelter. Although late-season bloomers, such as brown-eyed Susans and coneflowers, may have turned brown, birds still feed on the seed. Many butterflies overwinter on plant debris.
Allowing plant tops to remain over winter can also help collect leaves and snow for insulation and moisture. For some marginally hardy perennials, like garden mums, waiting until early spring to cut back the dead tops can actually improve a plant's chances of survival.
And, of course, leaving the tops in place will remind you where the plants are, in case you're thinking of adding more plants or rearranging the elements of the garden before spring growth begins.
On the other hand, plants with disease or insect pest troubles should be pruned back in fall to reduce the chances of carryover to the following season. Sanitation is one of the best investments gardeners can make in reducing problems for next season. Peonies and Rudbeckia with blackened foliage should definitely be cut back in fall. The same is true for bee balm and phlox, which are routinely plagued by powdery mildew. Removing iris and asparagus foliage in the fall reduces overwintering sites for the iris borer and asparagus beetles, respectively.
Badly damaged or infested foliage can and should be removed as soon as possible. Otherwise, wait until after several hard frosts have killed back the tops. Cut back the tops to about two inches above the soil. Hand pruners and hedge clippers work fine, if you have just a few plants to cut back. But for larger plantings and large clumps of ornamental grasses, a power hedge trimmer works well.
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