In the Grow - Q & A

Q. We have had the pictured vine above our sink since 1977. It has never bloomed in all that time - until this spring. It bloomed for the very first time. We don't know the name of the vine and would like to know. Our daughter told us it is a common vine. What can you tell us?

A. Wax plant, known botanically as Hoya carnosa, is a popular, easy-to-grow houseplant. This vigorous, twining vine may take years before it is mature enough to bloom, but once it does, it often continues blooming for months. Wax plant performs best in bright light with a well-drained soil mix that is allowed to dry a bit between waterings. This species seems to prefer being a bit pot-bound, so don't be in too much of a hurry to repot, even if it seems overgrown for its container.

Q. I have a question about cedar and bark and any wood chips for mulch. Will these chips attract termites?

A. Mulch of any kind can create a stable, moist habitat favorable to termites, so if termites are already in the area, or happen to wander into the area, you might see them in or under the mulch while they forage.  <Read More>

September Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

Prepare storage areas for overwintering tender flower bulbs and garden produce.

Thanksgiving (or Christmas) cactus can be forced into bloom for the Thanksgiving holidays. Provide 15 hours of complete darkness each day, for instance, from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m., for approximately eight weeks. Keep temperature at about 60 to 65F. Temperatures of 55F will cause flower buds to set without dark treatment.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Fall is usually a good time to plant many container-grown or balled-and-burlapped nursery stock, but if your area is still suffering from drought, it might be best to wait for better conditions. You do not want new plantings to go into winter in drought condition.

If you do have sufficient rainfall or ability to irrigate new plantings, prepare a hole wider than the plant’s rootball, plant at the same depth it grew in the nursery, and water thoroughly. Mulching will help protect against large fluctuations in soil temperature and moisture. Be sure to stake or guy-wire tall plants during their first season to protect them from strong winds.

GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)

Dig up onions and garlic after tops fall over naturally and necks begin to dry.

Plant radishes, green onion sets, lettuce and spinach for fall harvest.

Thin out fall crops such as lettuce and carrots that were planted earlier.  <Read More>

Upcoming Events - Purdue Master Gardener Course to be Offered this Fall

If you enjoy gardening and enjoy “Helping Others Grow”, make plans to take part in this fall’s Purdue Master Gardener Course in Spencer County.   

The Purdue Master Gardener Program is a volunteer training program which offers an extensive course in horticulture in exchange for a donation of volunteer hours to help teach others what you have learned. 

The course will be held on twelve consecutive Monday evenings from 6:00-9:00 PM, beginning September 10, at the Spencer County Youth and Community Center in Chrisney, IN. 

Participants will be exposed to a wide range of subjects including soil and plant science, diagnosis of plant problems, pesticide safety, composting, and culture of vegetable, flower, landscape, and fruit plants.   

A $125 per person supply fee will be charged to cover such items as reference materials, mailings, name badges, and refreshments. Couples or two family members who wish to take the course together and share reference materials can register for $200 per couple. Registration deadline is August 31.    

If you'd like an application to join our new team of volunteers or have questions about the program, please contact Nicholas Held at the Spencer County-Purdue Extension Office at (812) 649-6022 or nheld@purdue.edu.  Applications are also available online.

August Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

Take cuttings from plants such as impatiens, coleus, geraniums and wax begonias to overwinter indoors. Root the cuttings in media such as moist vermiculite, perlite, peat moss or potting soil, rather than water.

Order spring-flowering bulbs for fall planting.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Newly established plants are particularly vulnerable to extreme heat and drought. If possible, apply 1 to 1.5 inches of water every 7 to 10 days as a gentle, thorough soaking.

Even well-established trees, shrubs and perennials will suffer from extreme heat coupled with drought. Symptoms may include wilting, leaf scorch, branch dieback, blossom drop, early "fall" color and leaf drop, and in some cases, plant death of specimens that were already ailing.

GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)

Temperatures above 90 F often leads to poor fruit set in most vegetable crops; upper 90s will stop fruit set in nearly all crops. Fruits that were already set may show uneven ripening, blossom-end rot, skin cracking, sunburn where foliage cover is poor, poor ear fill in corn and bitter flavor in cucumbers and other vegetables.

Keep the garden well watered during dry weather and free of weeds, insects and disease. Early morning is the best time to water, but areas under watering restrictions may need to adjust accordingly. While normally we discourage overhead sprinkling due to its inefficiency and potential for promoting plant disease, it can be very effective at decreasing temperature in the plant tissue.  <Read More> 

Blossom End Rot - Another Drought Effect

Blossom-end rot on tomato (Creswell)

Anyone who has grown a vegetable garden for any length of time has probably at one point or another experienced the disappointment of reaching for a bright red, juicy tomato off the vine, only to find the bottom of the tomato to be rotten. And this is a year this has been a frequent occurrence for many gardeners. 

The culprit is a non-infectious disorder called blossom-end rot that affects not only tomatoes but also peppers and eggplants. Symptoms of blossom end rot first show up as small, light brown or water soaked spots on the blossom end of the fruit (thus the name). As the fruit ripens, spots enlarge rapidly, forming a dark, sunken, leathery lesion on the bottom of the fruit. Sometimes the lesions will cover the entire bottom half of the fruit. Blossom end rot usually affects the first fruits of the season most severely and many times the symptoms will disappear as the season progresses. While it may appear unappetizing, the un-rotted portion of the fruit is still edible.

Blossom-end rot is caused by a lack of calcium in the fruit. In most cases, this does not mean there is a lack of calcium in the soil. Rather, there are environmental factors that affect the plant’s uptake of calcium.  When the supply of calcium to the fruit does not keep up with its requirements, tissue in the fruit begins to break down. The environmental factors contributing to blossom-end rot include wide fluctuations in soil moisture levels (i.e. letting the plant reach the wilting point before watering), rapid plant growth followed by a prolonged period of dry weather, excessive rainfall which can smother roots, excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer or fresh manure, and root damage. This year's blossom-end rot occurrences most likely are due to soil moisture fluctuations and prolonged drought.

As mentioned early, rarely is the problem due to an actual soil calcium deficiency, so adding calcium to the soil is not usually an effective control method, unless recommended by a soil test. Foliar applications of calcium are also occasionally recommended, however they too are usually ineffective because the plants do not adequately absorb the calcium and get it to where it is needed most. An interesting point regarding blossom-end rot is that it usually affects the first fruits of the season most severely and once the plant's growth and calcium levels get back in balance, the symptoms disappear. So, when gardeners who have applied soil or foliar calcium, or some other home-remedy, see that the symptoms have disappeared, they mistakenly believe the calcium application was effective, when in reality, it was the plant managing the problem itself.    

To reduce the chances of blossom end rot occurring, some preventive steps can be taken. First, maintain a uniform moisture level in the soil - do not let the plants dry out repeatedly. Ideally, plants should receive the equivalent of one inch of water per week via rainfall or irrigation. Second, test soil regularly to maintain proper fertility and pH levels. Next, avoid using fertilizers containing high nitrogen levels or excessive amounts of fresh manure. These materials can cause excessive growth of leaves and stems and inhibit fruit development and production. Finally, do not cultivate deeper than 1 inch within a foot of the plant to avoid root damage.   

Blossom-end rot will always be annoyance for vegetable gardeners but with a few simple preventive steps, its effect on production can be greatly reduced.

In Times of Drought

Dry summers are not that unusual in the Midwest, but this year's dry spell - and now drought in many areas - has come considerably earlier than usual. Summer is just now officially getting started!

Gardeners have a battle on their hands to keep plants healthy when extremely high temperatures are accompanied by lack of rain. During prolonged drought conditions, water restrictions or just limited ability to water to a huge number of plants, you may have to limit watering and prioritize which plants will be rescued - a bit of garden triage, so to speak.  <Read More>

In Times of Drought - Video

This video is a companion piece to the above article and features Rosie Lerner, Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist, covering some basics of helping your vegetable and landscape cope with the drought. 

Drought....and the Potential for More Drought

US Drought Monitor report for Indiana.  For more information, see the Drought Monitor website.

This week's US Drought Monitor Report indicates an increasing area of Indiana is now under a moderate or severe drought, with a portion of southwest Indiana falling under the "severe" category.  While certain aspects of the current drought conditions have some producers and others thinking "1988" in the back of their minds, it is too early to make such a prediction.

So far, Spencer County has fared better than our neighbors to the west and northwest.  Though we are in the moderate drought category, infrequent but timely rainfall, combined with cooler temperatures, especially overnight, have kept drought effects in crops, gardens, and home landscapes from becoming widespread.   

There is a slight chance of scattered showers this weekend but according to staff at the Indiana State Climate Office, the next chance for more widespread, substantial rainfall is not until late next week.  As a result, we are in a bit of a wait-and-see pattern as far as how the drought will progress, with the next 10-14 days being crucial.  If one or both of these predicted systems produce rainfall,  it could be just the timely rain event we need to hold off further drought progression, at least for a few more weeks.  However, if these systems fail to bring moisture, we could then be at the tipping point for something much more severe. 

As we watch how the situation progresses over the next two weeks, we will continue to post drought management information on the Gazette, on our Facebook page, and in our bi-monthly newsletter.  In the meantime, below are two articles addressing the topic.  The first is a recent article covering the effects we are currently seeing in corn and soybean crops.  The second, originally written in 2007, covers tips for home gardens and landscapes.

More Crops Affected as Drought Spreads Throughout Indiana

Help Your Garden Cope with Dry Spell

June Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

Indoor plants will require more frequent watering and fertilization as they increase their summer growth.

Houseplants can be moved outdoors to a shady location, but pay close attention to their watering needs.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Prune spring-flowering shrubs after blooms fade.

Apply fungicide to prevent and control black spot on roses.


GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)

Discontinue harvest of asparagus and rhubarb around mid-June to allow foliage to develop and store food reserves for next year’s harvest. Fertilize and water when dry to promote healthy growth.

Mulch to control weeds and conserve soil moisture after soil has warmed. Many materials such as straw, chopped corncobs, bark chips, shredded paper and grass clippings can be used.  <Read More>

May Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

Many indoor plants can be moved to shady locations outdoors but only after danger of frost is past. Plants will dry out more often outdoors, so keep a close eye on soil moisture. Sinking the pots in soil will help slow down moisture loss.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Prune early spring-flowering trees and shrubs after flowers fade.

Plant balled-and-burlapped or container nursery stock, and water thoroughly.

GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)

Plant frost-tender plants after danger of frost is past for your area. This includes warm-season vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and vine crops, as well as most annual flowers and tender perennials, such as cannas, gladiolus, dahlias, tuberous begonias and caladiums.

Pinch chrysanthemums and annual flower plants to keep them compact and well branched. <Read More>

In the Grow - Q & A

Q. My rhubarb plant has been blooming and I have been cutting them off, but recently heard that rhubarb leaves are poisonous. Are the flowers poisonous, too? Do I need to wear gloves? What causes them to bloom?

A. The flowers (and the leafy foliage) of rhubarb plant are toxic if ingested, but not generally considered a skin toxin. However, some do find the sap an irritant, so it's always a good idea to wear gloves when gardening.

It does appear that some rhubarb plants are more prone to flowering than others. Old-fashioned varieties, such as Victoria and MacDonald, are heavy seed-stalk producers. Canada Red and Valentine are less likely to bolt. Plant maturity is also a factor, with more mature plants being more likely to bolt than youngsters. Dividing the crowns every 4-5 years should help rejuvenate the planting. And, no doubt, weather also plays a role, as it does seem to be more problematic in some years.  <Read More>

Growing Fruits and Vegetables in Containers

If you lack adequate space for a full-fledged garden but still would still like to enjoy a few fresh fruits and vegetables this summer, container gardening may be the answer for you. Flowers are not the only plants that do well in containers. In fact, most fruits and vegetables have varieties which will do well in containers. Strawberries are the most common container fruit while tomatoes are the most common container vegetable. Lettuce, green onions, radishes, cucumbers, and peas are also popular choices.

An increasing number of varieties are developed each year that are adapted for limited space areas; everything from grafted dwarf fruit trees to bush-type cucumbers. In seed catalog descriptions, many companies specify use in containers for small-size fruits and vegetables.

Just about any container can be used to grow fruits and vegetables; from whiskey barrels and bushel baskets to clay pots and hanging baskets. The key to success is to make sure the container provides adequate drainage. Water should not be allowed to stand in the bottom of the container. To provide proper drainage, the container should have holes in the bottom to allow the water to run out. The type of soil used can also have an effect on drainage. Garden soil alone should not be used in containers because it will soon become compacted and water will not drain through it properly. Sterilized compost mixed with peat moss and vermiculite works well, as does potting soil mix. You can even use the potting soil bag as the container. Lay the bag flat and slit holes in the bottom for drainage, then turn the bag over and cut openings in the top for the plants. This technique is known as “bag-culture” or “pillow packs”.

The containers should be placed in full sun and should be protected from strong winds. A water source should be close by or the containers should be easy to move so they can be watered regularly, especially during dry spells. You may also need to use portable containers if they are to be used as porch or patio decorations or if they need to be moved to a protected area during the winter. If you have a fruit tree growing in a container, be sure to move it to a protected location in the winter. If left out, the roots will freeze and the tree will die.

Fruits and vegetables grown in containers are still susceptible to the same insects, weeds, and diseases as those grown in garden beds, so it is important to take proper measures to control them. Using a sterilized soil mixture can help avoid soil borne insects and diseases. Removing dead leaves, flowers, and over-ripe fruit will also help control these pests. Inspect the plants regularly for insects and pick them off as you notice them. If the infestation becomes large, it may be necessary to use a pesticide to control them, making sure the chemical is labeled for use on all the plants in the container.  

Weeds are not as much of a problem in container gardens but they can quickly take over if not properly controlled. The best way to control weeds in the container is to make sure the soil in the container does not have weed seeds in it. Potting soil or peat moss generally will not have weed problems but if your soil mixture contains compost or garden soil, these materials should be taken from areas that are not weed infested. If you do find weeds growing in your containers, carefully pull them while they are small. Larger weeds should be cut out so as not to damage the surrounding desirable plants. Herbicide use is not practical for container gardens.

Additional information on container gardening can be found in Purdue Extension publication HO-200, available here.

April Yard and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

Start seeds of warm-season plants, including tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, marigolds, zinnias and petunias, indoors for transplanting later to the garden.

Harden off transplants started earlier in spring before planting outdoors - gradually expose the young plants to outdoor conditions of wind, brighter sunlight and lower moisture.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Plant a tree in celebration of National Arbor Day, April 27. Bare-root stock should be planted before new top growth begins. Balled- and-burlapped and containerized stock can still be planted later in spring.

Fertilize woody plants before new growth begins. Two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet should be sufficient.

GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)

Plant seeds of cool-season crops directly in the garden, as soon as soil dries enough to be worked. When squeezed, soil should crumble instead of forming a ball. Cool-season crops that can be direct-seeded include peas, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips and Swiss chard.

Plant transplants of cool-season crops, such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi and onions.  <Read More>

Cool Season Planting is Hot

Cool-season crops such as lettuce, potatoes, peas, cauliflower and onions actually prefer the cool, moist conditions of spring. With the extended mild winter, coupled with unseasonably warm conditions just at winter's end, our cool-season crops may be in fast-forward mode!

By March 13, soil temperatures under bare ground have already reached the upper 40s to mid 50s F in northern Indiana and in the 60s in southern Indiana. These temperatures are in the optimum range for germination of most cool-season crops and are nearly a month ahead of last year's.  <Read More>

Weird Weather and Pest Predictions

One of the most common questions that has come up in response to this season's winter weather (or lack thereof) is what effect it will have on pest problems this spring or summer, particularly insect populations.  Below are excerpts of responses given by two Extension experts. 

Larry Caplan, Extension Horticulture Educator in Vanderburgh County addressed this question in a recent newspaper column:

I was asked the other day what effect this strange weather will have on our pest problems this year. That is always a very tough topic for me. I don’t like to make predictions, because there are so many variables that can affect future events, rendering my predictions worthless. Still, there are a few things that I expect will happen this season.

First of all, everything will start happening at least 3 weeks earlier than normal because of the long warm-up we’ve had. Crabgrass germination occurs at about the same time as the forsythia shrub blooms. Usually, we can hold off applying our pre-emergent herbicides until mid to late March; this year, though, some parts of the tri-state may already be too late to get the best preventative control.

Dormant oil is applied to fruit trees to prevent later problems with spider mites. The oil needs to be applied before the trees bud out, otherwise the young leaves will be burned by the chemical. It’s already too late in some places. Likewise, the traditional orchard sprays to control disease and insect attacks should begin as the buds open. Normally, gardeners don’t expect to begin this until late March or early April, but I’ve already seen apple and cherry trees in bloom. Be sure to stop spraying while the flowers are open, so that you don’t hurt any bees that may be out.

The repeated storms of the last few weeks have dumped a lot of moisture on the tri-state. With moist conditions and standing water, we can expect increases in biting midges, mosquitoes, and crane flies. This is what we’ve seen for the last couple of years, which have all been pretty wet.

Warm, moist weather is ideal for fire blight, a bacterial disease that attacks apples, crabapples, and pears. The bacteria usually enters the tree through the flowers, but it can also enter twigs damaged by hail storms. Spraying the antibiotic Streptomycin during bloom and after a hail storm may offer some protection.

If warm weather continues, we may see an earlier emergence of Japanese beetles, eastern tent caterpillars, and other pests, but I don’t believe we’ll see increased numbers. Very few of these insects are killed by severe winters, so I don’t think their survival rate will change much.

And from Dr. Rick Foster, Purdue Extension Entomology Specialist, some points focusing specifically on insect populations:

While some insects, such as flea beetles, are directly impacted by cold winter weather and experience greater survival and higher populations as a result of mild winters such as the one we just experienced, many insect species are very well adapted to winter weather and will survive just fine no matter how cold it is.

Most insects have an amazing ability to reproduce in large numbers and, if spring and summer weather is conducive, will be able to develop to serious population levels no matter how many survived the winter.

Finally, some of our pests overwinter indoors and others overwinter in the South, so our winter weather has little effect on their populations.

The bottom line is that for a few insects, we can definitely expect higher populations, but for many others, we just can’t predict.

As you can see, there is no one answer to this seemingly simple question.  While winter weather conditions have little effect on most insect populations, it is the earlier-than-normal emergence of these insects, as well as weeds and diseases, that will be the most likely effect of our mild winter.  And, as Mr. Caplan adds, this is Indiana, so it could snow this weekend and change everything!

March Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar

Rosie Lerner, Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)
Begin fertilizing houseplants as new growth appears. Keep spent leaves and flowers removed to improve appearance and encourage more blooms.

Start garden seeds indoors for transplanting outdoors later in spring.

Check stored bulbs and produce for decay; discard damaged items.

Prune, repot and clean houseplants as needed.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Prune trees and shrubs, except those that bloom early in spring, while plants are still dormant.

Plant new trees and shrubs as soon as soil dries enough to be worked. Plant bare-root plants before they leaf out.

Fertilize woody plants before new growth begins, but after soil temperatures have reached 40 F - it might be several weeks early this year, given the mild winter.

Remove winter coverings from roses as soon as new growth begins. Prune and fertilize as needed.

Apply superior oil spray to control scale insects and mites when tips of leaves start to protrude from buds.

GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Plant cool-season vegetables and flowers as soon as the ground has dried enough to work. Do NOT work the soil while it is wet; wait until it crumbles in your hand. If the soil forms a solid ball when squeezed, it's still too wet.

Gradually harden off transplants by setting them outdoors during the daytime for about a week before planting.

Follow last fall's soil test recommendations for fertilizer and pH adjustment. It's not too late to test soil if you missed last year.

Start seeds of warm-season vegetables and flowers indoors; in northern and central Indiana, wait until the end of March or early April. Transplant to the garden after danger of frost is past.

Watch for blooms of early spring bulbs, such as daffodils, squill, crocus, dwarf iris and snowdrops.

Remove old asparagus and rhubarb tops, and sidedress the plants with nitrogen or manure. Plant or transplant asparagus, rhubarb and small fruit plants.

Remove winter mulch from strawberry beds as soon as new growth begins, but keep the mulch nearby to protect against frost and freezes.

Remove weak, diseased or damaged canes from raspberry plants before new growth begins. Remove old fruiting canes if not removed last year, and shorten remaining canes if necessary.

Prune grapevines.

New Vegetable Varieties in 2012

What better way to scratch your gardening itch this winter than to page through garden catalogs or surf websites with the promise of mouth-watering produce for the coming growing season! Here's a look at just a few of the new vegetable seed offerings for 2012. Try a few alongside your old standby favorites so that you can compare performance in your garden. See the full list here.

Winter Warm Spell Confuses Landscape and Garden Plants

Larry Caplan, Vanderburgh County Extension Horticulture Educator

I knew this warm spell of the past week was going to be a problem. Sometimes, I hate to be right.

Temperatures in the 50s and 60s have caused a lot of bulbs, perennials, and flowering plants to begin to emerge from the soil and bud out. In my garden, I’ve got crocus and daffodil in bloom. The buds on my lilacs are swelling; I’ve had reports of bud swell on peaches and other fruit trees, especially closer to the Ohio River.

According to the Weather Channel website (http://www.weather.com/weather/ ), our overnight temperatures will be dropping below freezing this week. According to the 10 day forecast for Evansville, we can expect overnight temperatures in the 20s starting Wednesday night, and continuing through Sunday night. The most recent prediction on this site is for a low of 20 degrees on Friday night.

Temperatures this low are going to cause damage to any exposed leaves and blooms. Expect to see daffodil foliage killed back to the ground, along with any other perennial plants that started to sprout. Fortunately, the soil is pretty warm, so the bulbs and perennials themselves shouldn’t be killed: they will sprout back out again, and may even bloom this spring.

Shrubs like azalea, lilac, and shadblow are in a very sensitive stage of development, as are crabapples, peaches, and ornamental cherries. As long as the buds haven’t opened, or at least, not show more than a little bit of a green tip, I expect that freeze damage to the blooms will be minor. If peaches, which are probably the most sensitive of our fruit crops, are still in the swollen bud stage, then a temperature of 18 degrees will only kill about 10% of the blooms…hardly noticeable. But if the peach flowers are showing any pink, then the same 18 degree low will wipe out 90% of the blooms.

Strawberries may be badly hurt. It never really got cold this winter, so the plants never really got into full dormancy. Check your garden: if you see any new green leaves, or (worse yet) any blooms, then a drop in temperature below 28 degrees is going to devastate them. If you still have your straw, plan on covering the plants deeply late afternoon, before the temperature drops. Remove the straw in the morning, after the temperature gets above freezing. Looking at the forecast, we’ll be doing this all week.

I’ve seen roses actually leafing out already. Roses produce their flower buds on new growth, so if some of the new shoots get frozen, the plant will simply sprout some more shoots and go on to bloom later in the season. However, a drop to 20 degrees, as predicted, could do more than blast some leaves and shoots: large portions of the plant could be killed back. It is most important to protect the graft union (a swollen section on the lower trunk, where your pretty rose branches, the scion, are grafted onto a root stock). If the graft union is damaged, then the plant will sprout from the roots, giving you a poor quality “wild rose”, which will look nothing like the plant you bought. Mound the base of the plant with wood chips, shredded leaves, or straw to a depth of 18 - 24 inches.

I don’t think you’ll need to cover your shrubs with sheets, but if you do, be sure to use a cloth sheet, and not a plastic tarp. Heat leaches right through the plastic, and any foliage touching it will be frosted. Don’t lay the sheet over your daffodils – you’ll wind up breaking the stems off. The sheets will only protect your plants down to a temperature of 25 to 26 degrees; much below that, and you may still get injury. If the sheet hangs all the way down to the warm ground, you may be able to withstand a colder overnight temperature as all the warm air is kept around the plant.

BTW: Please DO NOT refer to the cold snap this week as a “late frost.” Our average last frost of the year is the first or second week of April for the southwestern corner of Indiana. It’s SUPPOSED to be this cold!

Good luck!

January Home, Yard, and Garden Calender

Rosie Lerner, Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

• Keep holiday poinsettias and other plants near a bright window. Water as top of soil becomes dry.
• Increase humidity around houseplants by grouping plants together, placing them on a pebble-water tray or running a humidifier.
• Check stored produce and tender flower bulbs and roots for rot, shriveling or excess moisture. Remove and discard damaged material.
• Repot houseplants as they outgrow current pots.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

• Check young trees for rodent injury on lower trunks. Prevent injury with hardware cloth or protective collars.
• Keep road and sidewalk salt away from plants. Construct a screen of burlap, if necessary, to keep salt spray off plants.
• "Leaf" through nursery catalogs and make plans for landscape and home orchard additions. Order plants early for best selection.
• Early spring-flowering trees and shrubs, such as forsythia, crabapple, flowering quince, flowering dogwood and honeysuckle, can be forced for early indoor blooms by placing cut branches in water in a warm location.

GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)

• Send for seed catalogs for the garden.
• Sketch your garden plans on paper, including what to grow, spacing, arrangement and number of plants needed.
• Order seeds and plants as early as possible for best selection.
• Wood ashes from the fireplace can be spread in the garden, but don't overdo it. Wood ashes increase soil pH, and excess application can make some nutrients unavailable for plant uptake. Have soil tested to be certain of the pH before adding wood ash.

December Yard and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

• Check houseplant leaves for brown, dry edges, which indicate too little relative humidity in the house. Increase humidity by running a humidifier, grouping plants or using pebble trays.
• Extend the lives of holiday plants, such as poinsettias and Christmas cactus, by placing them in a cool, brightly lit area that is free from warm or cold drafts.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

• Prevent bark-splitting of young and thin-barked trees, such as fruit and maple trees. Wrap trunks with tree wrap, or paint trunks with white latex (not oil-based) paint, particularly on the south- and southwest-facing sides.
• Protect shrubs, such as junipers and arborvitae, from extensive snow loads by tying their stems together with twine. Carefully remove heavy snow loads with a broom to prevent limb breakage.

GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)

• To protect newly planted or tender perennials and bulbs, mulch with straw, chopped leaves or other organic material after plants become dormant.
• Store leftover garden chemicals where they will stay dry, unfrozen and out of the reach of children, pets and unsuspecting adults. <Read More>