September Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

Prepare storage areas for overwintering tender flower bulbs and garden produce.

Thanksgiving (or Christmas) cactus can be forced into bloom for the Thanksgiving holidays. Provide 15 hours of complete darkness each day, for instance, from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m., for approximately eight weeks. Keep temperature at about 60 to 65F. Temperatures of 55F will cause flower buds to set without dark treatment.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Fall is usually a good time to plant many container-grown or balled-and-burlapped nursery stock, but if your area is still suffering from drought, it might be best to wait for better conditions. You do not want new plantings to go into winter in drought condition.

If you do have sufficient rainfall or ability to irrigate new plantings, prepare a hole wider than the plant’s rootball, plant at the same depth it grew in the nursery, and water thoroughly. Mulching will help protect against large fluctuations in soil temperature and moisture. Be sure to stake or guy-wire tall plants during their first season to protect them from strong winds.

GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)

Dig up onions and garlic after tops fall over naturally and necks begin to dry.

Plant radishes, green onion sets, lettuce and spinach for fall harvest.

Thin out fall crops such as lettuce and carrots that were planted earlier.  <Read More>

June Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

Indoor plants will require more frequent watering and fertilization as they increase their summer growth.

Houseplants can be moved outdoors to a shady location, but pay close attention to their watering needs.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Prune spring-flowering shrubs after blooms fade.

Apply fungicide to prevent and control black spot on roses.


GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)

Discontinue harvest of asparagus and rhubarb around mid-June to allow foliage to develop and store food reserves for next year’s harvest. Fertilize and water when dry to promote healthy growth.

Mulch to control weeds and conserve soil moisture after soil has warmed. Many materials such as straw, chopped corncobs, bark chips, shredded paper and grass clippings can be used.  <Read More>

May Home, Yard, and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

Many indoor plants can be moved to shady locations outdoors but only after danger of frost is past. Plants will dry out more often outdoors, so keep a close eye on soil moisture. Sinking the pots in soil will help slow down moisture loss.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Prune early spring-flowering trees and shrubs after flowers fade.

Plant balled-and-burlapped or container nursery stock, and water thoroughly.

GARDEN (Vegetables, small fruits and flowers)

Plant frost-tender plants after danger of frost is past for your area. This includes warm-season vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and vine crops, as well as most annual flowers and tender perennials, such as cannas, gladiolus, dahlias, tuberous begonias and caladiums.

Pinch chrysanthemums and annual flower plants to keep them compact and well branched. <Read More>

April Yard and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

Start seeds of warm-season plants, including tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, marigolds, zinnias and petunias, indoors for transplanting later to the garden.

Harden off transplants started earlier in spring before planting outdoors - gradually expose the young plants to outdoor conditions of wind, brighter sunlight and lower moisture.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

Plant a tree in celebration of National Arbor Day, April 27. Bare-root stock should be planted before new top growth begins. Balled- and-burlapped and containerized stock can still be planted later in spring.

Fertilize woody plants before new growth begins. Two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet should be sufficient.

GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)

Plant seeds of cool-season crops directly in the garden, as soon as soil dries enough to be worked. When squeezed, soil should crumble instead of forming a ball. Cool-season crops that can be direct-seeded include peas, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips and Swiss chard.

Plant transplants of cool-season crops, such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi and onions.  <Read More>

Weird Weather and Pest Predictions

One of the most common questions that has come up in response to this season's winter weather (or lack thereof) is what effect it will have on pest problems this spring or summer, particularly insect populations.  Below are excerpts of responses given by two Extension experts. 

Larry Caplan, Extension Horticulture Educator in Vanderburgh County addressed this question in a recent newspaper column:

I was asked the other day what effect this strange weather will have on our pest problems this year. That is always a very tough topic for me. I don’t like to make predictions, because there are so many variables that can affect future events, rendering my predictions worthless. Still, there are a few things that I expect will happen this season.

First of all, everything will start happening at least 3 weeks earlier than normal because of the long warm-up we’ve had. Crabgrass germination occurs at about the same time as the forsythia shrub blooms. Usually, we can hold off applying our pre-emergent herbicides until mid to late March; this year, though, some parts of the tri-state may already be too late to get the best preventative control.

Dormant oil is applied to fruit trees to prevent later problems with spider mites. The oil needs to be applied before the trees bud out, otherwise the young leaves will be burned by the chemical. It’s already too late in some places. Likewise, the traditional orchard sprays to control disease and insect attacks should begin as the buds open. Normally, gardeners don’t expect to begin this until late March or early April, but I’ve already seen apple and cherry trees in bloom. Be sure to stop spraying while the flowers are open, so that you don’t hurt any bees that may be out.

The repeated storms of the last few weeks have dumped a lot of moisture on the tri-state. With moist conditions and standing water, we can expect increases in biting midges, mosquitoes, and crane flies. This is what we’ve seen for the last couple of years, which have all been pretty wet.

Warm, moist weather is ideal for fire blight, a bacterial disease that attacks apples, crabapples, and pears. The bacteria usually enters the tree through the flowers, but it can also enter twigs damaged by hail storms. Spraying the antibiotic Streptomycin during bloom and after a hail storm may offer some protection.

If warm weather continues, we may see an earlier emergence of Japanese beetles, eastern tent caterpillars, and other pests, but I don’t believe we’ll see increased numbers. Very few of these insects are killed by severe winters, so I don’t think their survival rate will change much.

And from Dr. Rick Foster, Purdue Extension Entomology Specialist, some points focusing specifically on insect populations:

While some insects, such as flea beetles, are directly impacted by cold winter weather and experience greater survival and higher populations as a result of mild winters such as the one we just experienced, many insect species are very well adapted to winter weather and will survive just fine no matter how cold it is.

Most insects have an amazing ability to reproduce in large numbers and, if spring and summer weather is conducive, will be able to develop to serious population levels no matter how many survived the winter.

Finally, some of our pests overwinter indoors and others overwinter in the South, so our winter weather has little effect on their populations.

The bottom line is that for a few insects, we can definitely expect higher populations, but for many others, we just can’t predict.

As you can see, there is no one answer to this seemingly simple question.  While winter weather conditions have little effect on most insect populations, it is the earlier-than-normal emergence of these insects, as well as weeds and diseases, that will be the most likely effect of our mild winter.  And, as Mr. Caplan adds, this is Indiana, so it could snow this weekend and change everything!

December Yard and Garden Calendar

HOME (Indoor plants and activities)

• Check houseplant leaves for brown, dry edges, which indicate too little relative humidity in the house. Increase humidity by running a humidifier, grouping plants or using pebble trays.
• Extend the lives of holiday plants, such as poinsettias and Christmas cactus, by placing them in a cool, brightly lit area that is free from warm or cold drafts.

YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)

• Prevent bark-splitting of young and thin-barked trees, such as fruit and maple trees. Wrap trunks with tree wrap, or paint trunks with white latex (not oil-based) paint, particularly on the south- and southwest-facing sides.
• Protect shrubs, such as junipers and arborvitae, from extensive snow loads by tying their stems together with twine. Carefully remove heavy snow loads with a broom to prevent limb breakage.

GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)

• To protect newly planted or tender perennials and bulbs, mulch with straw, chopped leaves or other organic material after plants become dormant.
• Store leftover garden chemicals where they will stay dry, unfrozen and out of the reach of children, pets and unsuspecting adults. <Read More>

Soil Testing for Lawns

Nicholas Held, Extension Educator, Spencer County

By this time of year, most lawns have seen their last mowing and last fertilization of the season and, with the exception of raking a few remaining leaves, there aren’t too many lawn tasks left to finish.  One task that can still be done is soil testing.  Testing the soil in the fall will allow plenty of time to get the results back and plan any fertilizer applications or other soil amendments before spring. 

Periodic testing of soil will help determine what the soil needs to nourish healthy turf and fertilizer applications should not be made without periodic soil testing.  Soil scientists recommend testing the soil in your lawn every 3 to 5 years.  Soil testing bags and forms are available at Extension Offices throughout Indiana.  

The following are some tips on soil testing and some explanations of soil testing terms:

Taking a Soil Sample

·         Contact your county Cooperative Extension office or soil testing lab for the fee structure, mailing containers, and other information.

·         Using a small shovel or soil probe, sample to a 3-inch depth.

·         Take approximately 10 to 15 samples per lawn and remove thatch and live plant material.

·         Combine the samples to make one composite sample.  Do not mix soils of different texture and color, from areas differing sharply in elevation, or from disturbed sites and undisturbed sites.

·         Air dry the sample before sending.

The Soil Test Report
After processing your soil sample, the soil test lab will send you a soil test report.  The following are usually included in the report:

Soil pH - A soil pH indicates whether the soil is acidic, alkaline, or neutral.  The concentration of soil nutrients will vary depending on the soil pH.  A soil pH below 6.0 indicates an acidic soil and a lime application may be recommended.  DO NOT APPLY LIME UNLESS IT IS RECOMMENDED.  Most Indiana soils under turfgrass do not need liming.

If the soil pH ranges from 6.0 to 7.5, it is unnecessary to adjust the pH.  This is the optimum pH range for turfgrass growth.  For a pH above 7.5 (rarely a problem in this area), there is no practical or economically feasible soil amendment for a lawn.  To compensate for a high pH, increase the annual nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium applications by 25 percent.     

Phosphorus (P) - The soil test results represent the amount of phosphorus available to the plants from the soil.  Phosphorus deficiencies are rarely observed in established turf in Indiana, except on soils with very high pH.  When establishing or renovating an area, a phosphorus application will help establish seedlings.  A fertilizer high in phosphorus (also called a "starter fertilizer") should be used for this application and should be applied at 1.5 pounds P₂O₅ /1000 ft².

Potassium (K) - The soil test results represent the amount of potassium that is available to the turfgrass plant. Potassium deficiencies are rare in turf in Indiana soils except possibly on coarse-textured, sandy soils. Muriate of potash (0-0-60) can be used to increase soil potassium levels.  Muriate of potash can burn leaf blades, so apply in cool, dry weather and water the area soon after application. 

Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) - This number represents a measure of your soil's capacity to hold nutrients; the higher the CEC, the more fertile the soil.  It is used by the soil test laboratories in making certain nutrient recommendations for your lawn.  The cation exchange number of an established lawn will not change significantly with time.  In addition, it cannot be adjusted by adding fertilizer or chemicals.

Nitrogen - There is no reliable soil test for nitrogen.  Therefore, other factors should be considered in planning a nitrogen program.  The nitrogen program is the key to a successful turfgrass fertility program.  For more information on nitrogen applications, see Purdue Extension Publication AY-22, Fertilizing Established Lawns.